The winding road to Pang Mapha district is a sensual joy. It can
be hell if you’re stuck in the back of a fume-spewing local bus
and prone to car sickness, but on a motorcycle it’s heaven. Being
in Northern Thailand this time of year is like watching a high-speed
video clip of a flower’s transformation from bud to bloom – it’s
astounding how rapidly the jungle recovers from the annual burning
spree. What was charred, smokey earth two months ago is once again
a tangled mass of acid-green undergrowth, snaking lianas and feathery
bamboo. The air is filled with the scents of earth and fresh rain,
and the screeching chainsaw buzz of cicadas. At the top of the
pass the ground falls away abruptly, down and across a seemingly
endless expanse of rolling rainforest.
It is between these mountainous tropical folds that the small
town of Soppong is located, 70kms from Mae Hong Son and an hour
or two from Pai. Don’t be put off by initial appearances – at
first glance Soppong looks like a virtual non-entity, with only
a few ugly buildings flanking the roads and sign posts indicating
the presence of guesthouses. But those who linger here soon find
out that Soppong is a veritable goldmine of archaeology, surrounded
by caves holding the remains of teak wood boxes believed to be
ancient coffins.
Even
if you’re not interested in the strange burial practices of aeons
ago, the caves, the jungle and the Lang River – which runs directly
through the caves and the town – present a whole world of opportunities
for outdoor adventures.
Unlike Pai, which is ever-changing to accommodate the influx of
farang, Sappong has a wilder, more authentic feel. This is not
the place to come if you’re fresh from the Full Moon Party and
looking for more of the same - night life here is pretty much
non-existent, with dinner at one of the local noodle bars, or
long fireside chats about as far as the options go. This is the
territory of exploring the jungle and the caves, bird watching,
and splashing in the river, with most visitors opting for early
nights at whatever guesthouse they’re calling home for the time
being.
Accommodation in town is limited to a few guesthouses on the river’s
edge and across the road. The nicest of the budget options is
Jungle House, with friendly owners, good food, and simple bungalows,
ranging from 100 baht to 200 baht. Little Eden Guesthouse is a
swish, upmarket operation with a swimming pool, internet access
and bungalow/bathroom units for 380 baht. By far the prettiest
place in town is Soppong River Inn, with a lush tropical garden
and a terrace overhanging the river. Luxurious double rooms and
bungalows here start at 500 baht and end at 700 baht for a luscious
little number suspended above the river.
Caving is Soppong’s number
one attraction, with countless caverns located in the area, many
of them containing complete or partial ‘Log Coffins’. The identity
of their creators remains a mystery, but archeologists have surmised
that the culture probably had some degree of social stratification.
In most caves there are less than 10 coffins, indicating that
not all members of the society were accorded such a burial. Similar
receptacles have been discovered in other parts of Asia, but nowhere
in such vast numbers as in Pang Mapha, where they have been found
at 83 sites.
The most visited cavern system in the area is the massive Tham
Lod, situated 10kms from Soppong in the tiny village of Ban Tham
Lod, and encompassing three separate caves. There is no admission
fee, but it’s wise to employ a guide – available at the park entrance
- to lead you through the system.
At twilight each night, swifts who sleep in the cave by night
execute an expertly orchestrated exchange with bats who reside
there by day. As the bats venture out to feed, thousands of swifts
circle overhead, breaking off in small swirls to enter the cave
at lightning speed. It is a phenomenon which inspires awe at the
perfection of nature. The same transaction, in reverse, is visible
at dawn.
Until
a week ago, there were two guesthouses in Ban Tham Lod, but a
flash flood effectively finished off Lang River Guesthouse, taking
four bungalows down the river and through the cave, as well as
a four wheel drive pick-up truck – a testament to the power of
the elements in this region. The only remaining accommodation
option is Cave Lodge. Fortunately it’s an excellent one, with
a wide array of price and room options.
Like some of the guesthouses in town, Cave Lodge offers a variety
of adventure activities. Kayaking day trips rivers are offered
during rainy season, with the option to stay overnight in the
dryer months. Also on offer are guided treks to caves or to one
of the Lisu, Lahu or Karen hill tribe villages that permeate the
area. Bamboo rafting or elephant riding can be included in most
treks.
Hiking routes are plentiful in the Soppong and Tham Lod areas,
and trekking independently is a great way to explore the jungle
at your own pace. Most hill tribe villages around Soppong are
friendly and accustomed to visitors, so your presence will be
no great intrusion.
